Sunday, October 23, 2011

Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi

Nishiki-ColorfulKoi
Nishiki-ColorfulKoi

 

Site Map:  Nishiki-Colorful-Koi

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Homepage Last updated: 2012, February 13

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Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
October 2011 | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
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October 2011 | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
February 2012 | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
    


2011/
        

August/ 49 pages
Tobi Koi Fish Named Alvin the Cannibal | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Your Pond Ecosystem Natural Filtration Systems | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Your Koi Pond and The Four Seasons | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Feeding Schedule Spring and Summer | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
The Secrets to Successful Koi Carp Fish Care | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Cleaning Schedule-Must Do | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How Do I Get Rid Of Algae? | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Ponds Causes For Excess Ammonia Which Always Includes Nitrites | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Over-Wintering Pond Fish | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Pond Oxygenating -Summer Ambient Temperature | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Question and Answers For the Newbie-Koi and Koi Pond Eenthusiast | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
I Added New Koi They Died-I Didn't Quarantine Them-What Should I Do? | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Question:How Do I keep Herons Out Of My Koi Pond | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Winterizing Your Koi Pond | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
You’re Koi Pond After Major Storm | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Pond Theft How To Prevent Heron Eating Your Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How to Keep Your Pond In Good Condition | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How To Train Your Koi-Hand Feeding | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Essential Koi Pond Supplies | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Choosing Plants For Your Koi Water Garden | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Bagging and Transporting Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Introduction To Koi Ponds | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
5 Steps to Perfect Koi Pond | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Water Fountains | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Good Or Bad Bacteria-What Is It | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Cleaning Your Pond Naturally | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
KOI Pond, KOI Water Feature, KOI Waterfall | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
John Cooper & Sons. Fish Taxidermist. | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How To Assess Your Koi Before Purchase! | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How Confident Are You Transferring Your Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Pond Bacteria | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
What is Pond Stratification and Its Effects on My Pond? | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Types of Fish Food - Floating, Sinking and Crumbles | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Is Your Water Safe: How Water Affects Your Koi Investment | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Filamentous Algae How to Get Rid Of This Evasive Algae | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Homemade Carp Boilies for Huge Specimen Catche | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Homemade Carp And Catfish Bait Recipes And Ingredients For Big Fish! | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Butterfly Koi-Information | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
The Secrets to Successful Koi Carp Fish Care | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Seasonal Koi Care Tips | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
The Secrets to Successful Koi Carp Fish Care | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi, Pond, Water Garden - This is the Year to Get Yours! | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Herpes Virus, The Deadly Disease | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Enjoy Sightseeing Tours of Kyoto with Your Children | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
What Causes Koi Cotton Fungus | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Butterfly Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
         


October/ 22 pages
Preparing Your Koi Pond for Major Storms | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Water Hardness from Nishiki-Colorful Koi Viewpoint | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Hikari Silkworm Selects™ New Product | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Aquascape, Inc Launches Koi New Pond and Landscape LED Light Kit-NEW PRODUCT | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Hand Feeding Koi Treats | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Resource Information North American List of Fish Health Contacts | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Pond In The Spring | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Feeding Koi –How Feed Koi, What To Feed Koi, When To Feed Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Pond Water Changes-Change Water Twice a Week | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How to Koi Pond | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Curing "Cotton Wool" Fungus on Your Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Keeping Your Koi Pond Clean | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Winterizing Your Koi Pond | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Longevity, Koi History, Koi Lineage, Koi Breeding, Koi Wintering | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Strangling Koi-Could The Cause Be Lurking In The Filters? | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How Do You Prepare and What Do You Do Before You Buy New Koi Fish? | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Pond Pumps and Plumbing | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Symbolism About Koi Fish Depends-Entirely On Koi’s Color The Japanese Believe | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Water Feature-Fountain-Easy Free Weekend' Project | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
    


2012/
         
January/ 5 pages
Butterfly Koi-New Butterfly Koi Domestically Bred | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
What Do Koi Eat | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Varieties for Sale | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
How Transfer Koi Into Aquarium or Pond | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Millons Koi Killed October 23rd - a Day to Remember-by Mamoru Kodama, Japan | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
        



February/ 4 pages
Hating Kio Three Years Worldwide News-Death, Beating, Robbery | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Tobi-Koi Fry | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Sexing Koi, Breeding Koi, Spawning Koi, Raising Koi Eggs and Koi Fry | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
Koi Forums-Resource For you | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
    
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Water Hardness from Nishiki-Colorful Koi Viewpoint

Water Hardness from Nishiki-Colorful Koi Viewpoint

One of the most important aspects of water quality as it affects so many areas of Koi health. Despite this importance to both fish health and water quality, it is often a poorly understood subject. Indeed, many fish keepers never check water hardness.

This seems particularly true of Koi keepers to whom it is especially relevant because of the high levels of nitrification taking place in a well-stocked or over stocked Koi pond.
Nishiki-ColorfulKoi
Nishiki-ColorfulKoi
 

The higher the osmotic pressure of a solution the more water wants to move into the solution. Pressure must be exerted on the hypertonic side of a selectively permeable membrane to prevent diffusion of water by osmosis from the side containing pure water.”


“Organisms in both aquatic and terrestrial environments must maintain the right concentration of solutes and amount of water in their body fluids; this involves excretion (getting rid of metabolic wastes and other substances such as hormones that would be toxic if allowed to accumulate in the blood) via organs such as the skin and the kidneys; keeping the amount of water and dissolved solutes in balance is referred to as osmoregulation.”

So What Is Water Hardness?

As explained in “The Birth of Water,” water accumulates many dissolved substances before it reaches our taps. Hardness is a measurement of the concentration of divalent metal ions such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, etc, usually acquired as rainwater percolates through rock. In most water it consists mainly of calcium and magnesium salts, with trace amounts of
other types of metals.

Water hardness is, from the Koi fish’s viewpoint, one of the most important aspects of water quality as it affects so many areas of fish health. Despite this importance to both fish health and water quality, it is often a poorly understood subject. Indeed, many fish keepers never check water hardness.

This seems particularly true of Koi keepers to whom it is especially relevant because of the high levels of nitrification taking place in a well-stocked Koi pond.

Water hardness has a major effect on pH and pH stability. It will affect the toxicity of many common substances, including some fish disease  treatments. It also has a major effect on fish osmoregulation, a process you will recall that is vital to fish health.

So what is water hardness; as explained in “The Birth of Water,” water accumulates many dissolved substances before it reaches our taps. Hardness is a measurement of the concentration of divalent metal ions such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, etc, usually acquired as rainwater percolates through rock. In most water it consists mainly of calcium and magnesium salts, with trace amounts of other metals.

Two types of hardness:
The subject gets a little confusing because there are two types of hardness that we need to consider. The two types are permanent hardness and alkalinity (often referred to as carbonate or temporary hardness). The sum of both types of hardness is called the general or total hardness.

Alkalinity refers to the hardness derived mainly from carbonate and bicarbonate ions and directly reflects the buffering capacity of the water. This form of hardness is also called carbonate hardness or temporary hardness because it can be precipitated and removed by boiling the water. This is why lime-scale forms in kettles and showerheads! 

Permanent hardness measures the ions such as nitrates, sulphates, and chlorides etc, that are not removed by boiling. Most of these are not involved with buffering but can affect pH values.

In most water supplies general hardness and alkalinity measurements (as mg/litre CaCO3) are likely to be very similar because carbonates usually predominate and the amount of permanent hardness is usually fairly small.

While there is a very close connection between water hardness and buffering it should be made clear that hardness is a product of mainly calcium and magnesium ions, while buffering is produced by bicarbonate and carbonate ions. The fact that the two are so closely related is due to the fact that most hardness is formed from calcium and magnesium carbonates.

So, as a rule of thumb, hard water is usually well buffered while soft water is usually less well buffered. However, we should be aware that it is possible, because of different water composition, to have hard water that is poorly buffered, i.e water where permanent hardness predominates, or soft water that is well buffered, i.e. water that has high levels of sodium or potassium carbonate, rather than calcium or magnesium.

Obviously the simple way to establish the makeup of your local water and pond water (they may not be the same) is to test for both types of hardness. Test kits are readily available for measuring both types of hardness.

The carbon dioxide/bicarbonate/carbonate buffering system
The initial pH of water is determined by the type of dissolved compounds that it accumulates, although it may well be chemi cally altered by the water company before it reaches your tap.

However, once it is in the pond or aquaria, water pH is also influenced by other factors such as plant and animal respiration and plant photosynthesis. Without some form of buffering these natural activities would cause huge diurnal swings in pH.

The most common buffering system is the carbon dioxide/ bicarbonate/ carbonate buffering system. Essentially it stabilizes pH by mopping up excess hydrogen ions and then releases them again as levels drop, so that the hydrogen concentration, and therefore the pH, stays fairly constant.

CO2+H2O H2CO3 HCO-+H +CO3 2- (solid) +2H+
What this equation tells us (from left to right) is that carbon dioxide, excreted by fish and plants, dissolves in water to form carbonic acid (H2CO).

If pH levels increase, that is the water becomes more alkaline (say from plant photosynthesis), then the carbonic acid dissociates to form bicarbonate and hydrogen ions (HCO3-+ H+). Hydrogen ions are acidic-forming ions and will therefore counteract the alkalinity increase.

If the pH continues to increase, the bicarbonate will dissociate to form solid carbonate and release yet more hydrogen ions (CO3 2-(solid) + 2H+), to counteract the increased alkalinity.

The solid carbonate is the chalk layer covering the pond bottom and walls (or the kitchen kettle). If pH levels start to fall the process is reversed. At a normal pond pH of 7 to 8 some or all of the above species will be present, with bicarbonate dominating.

Carbonate will predominate above pH 9. The buffering capacity of water depends on the total amount of bicarbonate and carbonate present. Water that has low levels of these ions will quickly exhaust its ability to counteract
pH fluctuations.

How much hardness?
Each fish species has its preferred range of water hardness, however it can become confusing, as there are several units of measurement currently used to determine water hardness. The most commonly used method measures both alkalinity and general hardness as mg /litre of calcium carbonate (CaCO3).

Another common measurement, used by Tetra, is German hardness measured as odH. These compare as seen in table 1. Fish health and water hardness:

Different species of fish have varied water hardness requirements, so it is important to find out what hardness is best for your fish. For most pond fish, i.e. Koi and goldfish, moderate to hard water is best. From table 1 we can see that the optimum hardness range for most pond fish would be between 100 -300 mg/litre CaCO3.

Water hardness affects fish health because it influences osmoregulation. Being open systems, fish are affected by the

Table 1: Typical Water Hardness Ranges

Water    mg / litre
Calcium carbonate °
                 dH



Soft
    0-75
                              0°–4°



Moderately Hard
                         75–150
                              4°–8°



Hard
150-300
                              8°–16°    
           



Very Hard
>300
                           >16°

To convert odH to CacO3 multiply by 17.9



makeup of the surrounding water. As a consequence of osmosis, freshwater fish are subject to a continuous influx of water, while marine fish have to live with a continuous outflow of water.

Against this continuous movement of water into or out of the body, fish have to maintain a constant internal body fluid concentration – a process called osmoregulation.

The greater the difference in concentration between the fish’s body fluidsand the surrounding water – the greater the osmotic effect. As hard water is more concentrated than soft, there will be less difference and therefore less water influx and consequently the fish will not have to work so hard at osmoregulation.

This is particularly important in cases of bacterial ulceration where water can flood into open tissues. Water hardness and disease treatments; some common fish disease treatments are affected by water hardness, and therefore needs to be considered when calculating dosages. Probably the most sensitive is chloramine-T, which is quite toxic in soft, acidic water.
How do I change water hardness?

First because nitrification is continually removing alkalinity it is important that hardness is monitored on a regular basis – say about once a month. If either alkalinity or general hardness falls below the optimum level it can be reversed by either adding a calciferous source such as crushed oyster shell to the filter or adding more buffer to the water. If alkalinity is too low then add a carbonate buffer. If general hardness is too low then add a calcium or magnesium buffer.

Coccolithic Calcium Carbonate - this will raise both the hardness and the alkalinity of the water.

Two types of hardness:
The subject gets a little confusing because there are two types of hardness that we need to consider. The two types are permanent hardness and alkalinity (often referred to as carbonate or temporary hardness). The sum of both types of hardness is called the general or total hardness.

Alkalinity refers to the hardness derived mainly from carbonate and bicarbonate ions and directly reflects the buffering capacity of the water. This form of hardness is also called carbonate hardness or temporary hardness because it can be precipitated and removed by boiling the water. This is illustrated by why-lime-scale forms in kettles and showerheads-carbonates usually is predominating and the amount of permanent hardness is usually fairly small.

While there is a very close connection between water hardness and buffering it should be made clear that hardness is a product of mainly calcium and magnesium ions, while buffering is produced by bicarbonate and carbonate ions.

The fact that the two are so closely related is due to the fact that most hardness is formed from calcium and magnesium carbonates. So, as a rule of thumb, hard water is usually well buffered while soft water is usually less well buffered.

However, you should be aware that it is possible, because of different water composition, to have hard water that is poorly buffered, inn other words water where permanent hardness predominates or soft water that is well buffered, in other words water that has high levels of sodium or potassium carbonate, rather than calcium or magnesium.

Obviously the simple way to establish the makeup of your local water and ponds water (they may not be the same) is to test for both types of hardness. Test kits are readily available for measuring both types of hardness.

The carbon dioxide/bicarbonate-carbonate buffering system -The initial pH of water is determined by the type of dissolved compounds that it accumulates, although it may well be chemically altered by the water company before it reaches your tap.

However, once it is in the pond or aquaria, water pH is also influenced by other factors such as plant and animal respiration and plant photosynthesis. Without some form of buffering these natural activities would cause huge diurnal swings in pH.

The most common buffering system is the carbon dioxide/bicarbonate/ carbonate buffering system. Essentially it stabilizes pH by mopping up excess hydrogen ions and then releases them again as levels drop, so that the hydrogen concentration, and therefore the pH, stays fairly constant.
CO2+H2O H2CO3 HCO-+H +CO3 2- (solid) +2H+

What this equation tells us (from left to right) is that carbon dioxide, excreted by fish and plants, dissolves in water to form carbonic acid (H2CO). If pH levels increase, that is the water becomes more alkaline (say from plant photosynthesis), then the carbonic acid dissociates to form bicarbonate and hydrogen ions (HCO3-+ H+). Hydrogen ions are acidic-forming ions and will therefore counteract the alkalinity increase.

If the pH continues to increase, the bicarbonate will dissociate to form solid carbonate and release yet more hydrogen ions (CO32-(solid) + 2H+), to counteract the increased alkalinity.

The solid carbonate is the chalk layer covering the pond bottom and walls(or the kitchen kettle). If pH levels start to fall the process is reversed. At a normal pond pH of 7 to 8 some or all of the above species will be present, with bicarbonate dominating.

Carbonate will predominate above pH 9; the buffering capacity of water depends on the total amount of bicarbonate and carbonate present. Water that has low levels of these ions will quickly exhaust its ability to counteract
pH fluctuations.

How Much Water Hardness Is Ok?
Each fish species has its preferred range of water hardness however it can become confusing, as there are several units of measurement currently used to determine water hardness. The most commonly used method measures both alkalinity and general hardness as mg /litre of calcium carbonate (CaCO3).

Another common measurement, used by Tetra, is German hardness measured as odH. These compare as seen in table 1. Fish health and water hardness: Different species of fish have varied water hardness requirements,
so it is important to find out what hardness is best for your fish.

For most pond fish, in other words Koi and goldfish, moderate to hard water is best. From table 1 we can see that the optimum hardness range for most pond fish would be between 100 - 300 mg/litre CaCO3.

Water hardness affects fish health because it influences osmoregulation. Being open systems, fish are affected by the makeup of the surrounding water. As a consequence of osmosis, freshwater fish are subject to a continuous influx of water, while marine fish have to live with a continuous outflow of water.

Against this continuous movement of water into or out of the body, fish have to maintain a constant internal body fluid concentration – a process called osmoregulation. The greater the difference in concentration between the fish’s body fluids and the surrounding water – the greater the osmotic effect.

As hard water is more concentrated than soft, there will be less difference and therefore less water influx and consequently the fish will not have to work so hard at osmoregulation. This is particularly important in cases of bacterial ulceration where water can flood into open tissues.

Water hardness and disease treatments-Some common fish disease treatments are affected by water hardness, and therefore needs to be considered when calculating dosages. Probably the most sensitive is  chloramine-T, which is quite toxic in soft, acidic water.

How do I change water hardness? First because nitrification is continually removing alkalinity it is important that hardness is monitored on a regular basis – say about once a month. If either alkalinity or general hardness falls below the optimum level it can be reversed by either adding a
calciferous source such as crushed oyster shell to the filter or adding more buffer to the water.

If alkalinity is too low then add a carbonate buffer. If general hardness is too low then add a calcium or magnesium buffer. Coccolithic Calcium carbonate - this will raise both the hardness and the alkalinity of the water. V Water mg / litre-Calcium carbonate °dH -Soft 0-75 0°–4°-Moderately Hard 75–150 4°–8°-Hard 150-300 8°–16°-Very Hard >300 >16°.

Table 1: Typical water hardness ranges-To convert odH to CacO3 multiply by 17.9 -Permanent hardness measures the ions such as nitrates, sulphates, and chlorides etc, that are not removed by boiling. Most of these are not involved with buffering but can affect pH values. In most water supplies general hardness and alkalinity measurements (as mg/litre CaCO3) are likely to be very similar because

by Dr. Erik Johnson, Georgia - www.drjohnson.com
September 2011 Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 19 Page 20 Mid-Atlantic Koi September 2011


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