Friday, September 30, 2011

Koi Pond Oxygenating -Summer Ambient Temperature


Koi Pond Oxygenating -Summer Ambient Temperature

I live in Las Vegas Nevada-2,030ft (620 m) above sea level. Las Vegas is part of the Mojave Desert area summer temperatures are usually 110-F to 115-F or higher and during the evening 97-F to 99-F at midnight-so as your can see aeration has always been big concern for our Koi pond.

Las Vegas is just a little slice of hell on earth –we have 2 temperatures damn hot and cold and maybe if we are lucky 2 week at the end of April mild temperatures in the low eighties and 1.5 weeks at the beginning November mild temperatures in high eighties Las Vegas is subtropical and if it rains you expect massive flooding and by the way it has snowed in Las Vegas.


The leading hazard to your Koi from May to October in Las Vegas is low oxygen levels. Air breathers like us live in oxygen enriched environment which is approximately 21% oxygen.

The amount of oxygen dissolved in water is so minuscule it is measured- (in parts per million)- at 90°F only about 7.0 parts per million (ppm) of dissolved oxygen that is maintained in fresh water.

It take a enormous amount of aeration to get your ponds oxygen to near saturation levels. 7.0 (ppm) is approximately 100,000 times less oxygen than found in the air we breathe because of the Las Vegas elevation above sea level.

There is really very little cushion when you can consider for Koi or Goldfish to become stressed at oxygen levels of 5.0 to 6.0 ppm and start dying at 4.0 (ppm).

This should give you some awareness of how important aeration is to your Koi and your Koi Pond-remember the beneficial bacteria that lives in your filter are dependent on the amount of oxygen in the water to thrive or survive and do their job-converting ammonia to nitrites and nitrates by utilizing the dissolved oxygen in your pond as well.

Low oxygen levels will suppress- “good” bacteria and allow ammonia levels increase to dangerous amounts. Aquatic submerged plants like filamentous algae in your Koi pond are both beneficial and detrimental to oxygen levels.

During the day green submerged plants produce oxygen, at night these same plants consume oxygen and compete with your Koi for the limited supply of oxygen in the water. This is why Koi kills usually happen in the early morning hours. For that reason you should always measure your Koi ponds oxygen levels in the very early morning.

Combination of warm water, faster plant growth, and growing biomass of fish, algae cause the oxygen level to drop to where fish are stressed and start dying.

Hot Weather Pond Must Do

Now you recognize the problems from low oxygen levels. Measure your pond’s oxygen level and correct it immediately.

The easiest method is to buy an oxygen test kit and make sure to buy test kit for fresh water. You fill a test tube with pond water to the lowest predetermined level and then add some reagents and match the color to your test kit chart.

You will also need to know your pond’s water temperature to determine how “saturated” your pond is with oxygen-your goal is to approach the saturation point at a given water temperature.

Place additional air stones in your pond or filter system during the hottest summer months; if your current air pump does not allow you to add more air stones consider buying another air pump to allow you to add more aeration for the hottest summer months.

Remember-if your electricity goes off for whatever reason during Las Vegas summer you will have much less time before the oxygen is depleted from Koi’s pond-always maintain your maximum oxygen saturation level prior to any power outage.

How much aeration should you have in a healthy moderately stocked Koi pond? I would suggest a minimum 80 liters per minute per 3,000 gallons of water.

This can be supplied in a variety of ways; use air stones positioned in your pond, waterfall area or filters-some types of Koi pond filters require aeration and this counts towards your total aeration as well. It is impossible to supply too much aeration to a Koi pond –especially the summer months in Las Vegas.

Water Temperature

You must keep your pond water temperature from rising above 90°F-you can assume your Koi are extremely stressed if your water temperature goes above 90°F or your pond temperature changes should never fluctuate by more than 5 degrees plus or minus during the day (+/- 5 degrees).

Shade your pond from the hottest part of the afternoon sun. Plant a tall trees or hedge on the west side of your pond or place some tall potted plants to help provide sun relief or use shade sails they are inexpensive and they work.

Many ponders have also started using specially made shade sails. If you have water lilies try to get about 50% – 60% of the water surface covered to provide some shade for your fish.

Increase your water circulation if at all possible; if you have an outside filter system for your Koi pond create shade or insulated it as well; build a trellis or plant a hedge or large potted plants act not only as a sunscreen but also hide the filter from view for the rest of the year.

You need portable waterfall or fountain this immediately increase the water flow and aeration. If your fountain can be adjusted use the fine mist effect; buy larger water pump-this will creates additional evaporation which will have a supplementary cooling effect or chillers.


Another method to cool the area around your pond is to use one of the “mister” products you can purchase at Home Depot or Lows for approximately $20.00.

You hook the mister system hose to a garden hose and it has several tiny outlets that create a very fine almost fog like mist that can cool the immediate area by up to 15°; misters should be placed on a timer to come on for 21 hours in Las Vegas set for 6 a.m. - 3 a.m. every day we don't fit into garden hose we use splitter that goes directly into our waterline.

We use misters to cool the main house and our guest house and our garage and our over all cooling costs went down by $180.00 per month because it decreases the ambient temperature by 15 degrees cooler and the amount of water mister’s use is very minimal-approximately 10 gallons per hour which is equivalent to flushing a toilet once every hour.

Feeding

Reduce the amount of food you give virus the cooler parts of the spring and fall-reduce feedings to only once a day and feed early in the morning.

Remember optimum water temperature for Koi and Goldfish is between 70°F and 78°F. Once your water temperature goes above 84°F feed only every other day and stop feeding all when the water temperature nears 90°F. 

The best advice I can give anyone is make a practice of feeding your Koi only 1 time a day-early morning and the amount of food should be no more than your Koi can consume in 10 minutes- Remember food generates heat.

Water Changes and Filter Maintenance

Higher water temperatures mean everything happen explosive fast in your Koi pond- debris blows into your pond- Koi defecate and pond will decompose faster and all this requires more oxygen which as you know is already in short supply in warmer weather further your water quality will degenerate more rapidly and purchase chillers for your pond.

You should increase the quantity and the frequency of water changes during the hottest time of the year. Also more frequent dumping of settlement chambers and back washing of filters are also necessary to slow down declining water quality.

Las Vegas remember to keep your garden hoses in the garage or cool shady area in your yard-let water run a little longer to rinse out your hose and let the water temperature cool down as much as possible.

Also remember for those of you who are on city water be aware that these same challenges that face your pond also are challenges for the water department; as a result they will often double or more the amount of chlorine added to your water supply to be sure to disinfect your drinking water properly.

This increase in chlorine can be a real threat to your Koi- recommendation- double your dechlor treatment amount during this period; also if there is a major water main break in your area the amount of chlorine added to be sure your drinking water is safe can run up to 50X the normal amount.

Inexpensive water timers can save you lots of heartbreak from lost and damaged fish. Warmer water temperatures and stressed fish can also mean increased susceptibility to parasites.

Anchor worms and fish lice can be seen without a microscope but flukes and other microscopic fish parasites cannot. Green water can be especially dangerous to your fish in warmer weather- it is difficult to see if your Koi have developed any significant health issues but the oxygen demand especially at night can tip your Koi pond oxygen levels below the danger level.

Using an algaecide to kill algae in the summer release and dumps an enormous load of dead organic material into your pond this can also tip the balance Koi pond this type of action is always is determinable to your Koi.

Don’t try to emulate the way we handle our Koi ponds- remember we have only one Koi and his name is Alvin our pond meanders and is zoned-we have 3 waterfalls and many fountains and we use large pool pumps and large built-in filtration system that is monitored by computers.

However all that I explained and described we have done or we are currently doing—further and I explained why we have only one Koi- I posted information regarding Alvin the cannibal; I’m confident this will help you with your Koi pond during the heat of the summer in any location.

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Koi Ponds Causes For Excess Ammonia Which Always Includes Nitrites


Clamped Fins; White Burns Caused By Ammonia Poisoning. Goldfish or  Koi Look The Same With Clamped Fins
·        Overstocking Koi
·        Overfeeding Koi
·        Low Oxygen Saturation
·        Undersized Biofilter
·        Immature Filter (good bacterial colonies have not increased to a sufficient number this usually occurs in the spring)
·        Dirty Filter
·        Filter too Aggressively or Frequently Cleaned (especially
·        if chlorinated tap water has been used)
·        Chemical treatments that harms good bacteria;

Symptoms of high ammonia: could include weariness Koi could be lying on bottom of your pond with clamped fins and red streaking-flashing, jumping.

Symptoms of high nitrite: could include sluggishness (sometimes lying on pond bottom with clamped fins, though swimming up for food before going down again)-brown streaking in the pectoral fins-jumping, flashing.

There are 2 types test kits for ammonia:  Nessler and Salicylate.

Nessler kits use one reagent grade-yellow to red; reagent grade defined (a reactant or reagent is a substance consumed during a chemical reaction.[1] Solvents and catalysts, although they are involved in the reaction, are usually not referred to as reactants.

Although the terms reactant and reagent are often used interchangeably, reagent is often used in a more specialized sense as "a test substance that is added to a system in order to bring about a reaction or to see whether a reaction occurs".[1] Examples of such analytical reagents include Fehling's reagent and Tollens' reagent. In organic chemistry, reagents are compounds or mixtures, usually composed of inorganic or small organic molecules, that are used to effect a transformation on an organic substrate. Examples of organic reagents include the Collins reagent, Fenton's reagent, and Grignard reagent.

In another use of the term, when purchasing or preparing chemicals, "reagent-grade" describes chemical substances of sufficient purity for use in chemical analysis, chemical reactions or physical testing. Purity standards for reagents are set by organizations such as ASTM International. For instance, reagent-quality water must have very low levels of impurities like sodium and chloride ions, silica, and bacteria, as well as a very high electrical resistivity and the color goes from.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reagent

There are 2 types test kits for ammonia: Salicylate test kits use two reagents, and the results vary from yellow to shades of green/blue. If you are using chemicals such as ChlorAmX or Ultimate to bind ammonia (or
Chlorine), you MUST use Salicylate tests. 
 
 The problem with the Nessler test: Nessler test reads all ammonia present, including ammonia that is now bound by the chemical, and which is no
longer harmful to the Koi so no matter how much binder you add – the test shows ammonia
  
Salicylate tests reads only the unbound ammonia (the type of ammonia which harms your Koi!) and the bound ammonia (which is no longer harmful to your Koi) is invisible-so you will know immediately result of the Salicylate test shows ammonia, then you need to add more ammonia binder.

Treatment for high ammonia:
·        Water changes to dilute ammonia
·        Binders such as ChlorAmX or Ultimate, or in very small pond ecosystem-systems Zeolite rocks which absorb ammonia from your pond system.
·        Remember that salt will release the ammonia bound to the Zeolite-these are all meant to be temporary solutions while your filter may not be working up to capacity.
·        ANY unbound ammonia is harmful to your Koi even extremely small amounts in the water over an extended time may cause permanent gill damage.

Treatment for high nitrite
·        Includes water changes-change 50% of water from bottom
·        Suspended feeding
·        Salting to 0.1% and increased oxygenation. Again, these are meant to only temporarily improve the situation until the filters are working.

In all cases address the underlying cause
·        check your filter
·         In the spring, check ammonia, nitrite, pH and KH (total alkalinity or Carbonates) use your test kits daily until your bacterial colonies are populated each and every spring-then weekly during the summer.
·        Simple precautions will help stop small problem-becoming major disasters.
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Thursday, September 29, 2011

Question and Answers For the Newbie-Koi and Koi Pond Eenthusiast

Koi Man






Question: In an effort to save electric costs; can I cut down on running UV light- How many hours per day do I have to run the UV to be effective?

Answer: How many Koi are you willing to lose-the UV should run 24/7-Remember UV light was designed to kill bacteria- If you slow down the flow rate it also kills the algae.

Question: If my water has chloramine as an alternative to chlorine additive, do I have to add dechlor as well as adding something to counteract the extra ammonia in my pond water?

Answer: Great Question - Dechlor should be added to water with chlorine or chloramine- If you are adding a large amount of new water, with chloramine, you should add a product that removes both chlorine and chloramine to make the ammonia non-toxic.

Question: There are so many different opinions as to how to quarantine new Koi- Everyone has a list of what chemicals have to be added to the quarantine tank, raising and lowing the temperature, etc- What is the minimum you suggest for a newbie?

Answer: Minimum for a quarantine tank- Mature filter, treated water(dechlor), raise the water temp slowly to 70°F from the water temperature to allow the Koi to safely acclimate-Their should be at least two Koi in quarantine tank simultaneously -Clean water is the primary concern in quarantine tank-Tank should always have a cover to prevent Koi from jumping out.

I Added New Koi They Died-I Didn't Quarantine Them-What Should I Do?


Koi Man
Question: I added new fish last year without quarantining them and they all died and some of the old ones also died over the winter. Some are all right. Now before I add new ones I want to know if I have to treat the pond? I have no idea why they died. What do you think I should do?

Answer: First you have to clean out your pond.

• Do a 50% water change. Take the water from the bottom of the pond.

• Don’t feed the fish until the water temp stays at 60°F.

• Then feed only what they will eat in 5 to 10 min-Once a day.

Do NOT add any fish unless you quarantine them for at least 6 to 8 weeks.

• Don’t treat the pond with anything unless you know exactly what 
  you’re treating for.

• Don’t use a shotgun method of treatment. If the other fish from last year are okay keep them in the pond alone for 8 to 12 weeks.

You never said how large your pond is- and how many Koi are in the pond and what type of filtration you have, this type of information from you could lead to much better answers for your problem.

How Do I Get Rid Of Algae?


Sun Sail's
Question: How do I get rid of Algae?

Answer: First you have to know how you got Algae in the first place then you can get rid of it.

All algae need three things to grow- an abundant supply of 
nutrients; principally phosphates and nitrates. Sunlight in 
great amounts ties it all together. Knowing this should make it 
easy to control Algae.

The fastest and easiest way is to do water changes; this washes out most of the nutrients. Plants can be added to the pond to compete with the Algae for nutrients. (This can also be done in a bog filter) Also some kind of a sun sail will help. 

Sun Sail Over Pond
Sun Sails are easy to install temporarily blocking the sun; A UV light will help on a continuing basis, but it must have a slow rate of water flow to kill the (Plankton) Algae. Then the dead Algae will be filtered out in the system.

Get someone at the store where you buy it to figure out how big a unit you need.

There are also chemicals to add to the pond to kill Algae, but use them as only last resort. The goal is to "control" algae- not kill the algae entirely.

Don’t forget you are the one who doesn’t like Algae, the Koi love it.
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Koi Feeding Schedule Spring and Summer


Koi Feeding Schedule Spring and Summer
Question:
Now that it is summer time my Koi fish want to eat all the time. How much should do I feed my Koi and how often?

Answer:
First the Koi fish do want to eat all the time; that doesn’t mean Koi need food. When your Koi see you they want to eat, that’s a conditioned response.

Stick to Koi feeding schedule.

  •  Spring –Starts at 50°F - wheat germ food once a day what Koi will eat in 5–10 minutes
  • Summer – Starts at about 60°F Regular high protein food once a day what they will eat in 5–10 minutes.
  •  Koi pond temperature 65-70°F – Feed twice a day what they will eat in 5–10 minutes.
  •  Koi pond temperature over 70°F – You could go to three times a day what they will eat in 5–10 minutes.
  •  Koi pond temperatures over 80°F – Too Hot Do Not Feed look for ways to cool the water. Different kinds of pond chillers are available. I've seen coil based units that hang into the water as well as pumps which circulate the water into the unit then expel cooler water out.
  • Check your local hardware store in the garden section where they keep the lawn and swimming pool equipment or go to swimming pool store that's where you will find pond equipment in Las Vegas Nevada. Further add portable waterfall or fountain immediately why not do both. Remember hotter the pond’s temperature less air in the pond.
  •  Fall – Do the schedule in reverse until 50°F. Then don’t feed; If you feed more than this you will be fouling the water and Over taxing your filter system, by making more ammonia. Don’t forget to do your water changes and ammonia testing on a regular schedule; this will help water quality stay high.


Question:How Do I keep Herons Out Of My Koi Pond

Question:
How do I keep Herons out of my koi pond?

Heron and Egrets
Answer:
There are a few ways to keep Great Blue Herons and their cousins the Snowy Egrets out of your pond.

1. When you build the pond make the sides steep Herons and Egrets don’t like deep water; Remember Herons and Egrets are wading birds they like to wade into a pond.

2. Put fishing line (mono) about 18˝ high and 6 to 8˝ from the pond all the way around; this keeps Herons and Egrets from walking into your pond.

3. The two best ways to discourage Herons and Egrets are bird netting around the pond, or use one or more Scarecrows around the pond. The Scarecrow shoots a stream of water at Herons and Egrets when they come around the pond.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Site Map: Nishiki-Colorful-Koi

 

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Tobi Koi Fish Named Alvin the Cannibal | Nishiki-Colorful-Koi
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