Sunday, October 23, 2011

Water Hardness from Nishiki-Colorful Koi Viewpoint

Water Hardness from Nishiki-Colorful Koi Viewpoint

One of the most important aspects of water quality as it affects so many areas of Koi health. Despite this importance to both fish health and water quality, it is often a poorly understood subject. Indeed, many fish keepers never check water hardness.

This seems particularly true of Koi keepers to whom it is especially relevant because of the high levels of nitrification taking place in a well-stocked or over stocked Koi pond.
Nishiki-ColorfulKoi
Nishiki-ColorfulKoi
 

The higher the osmotic pressure of a solution the more water wants to move into the solution. Pressure must be exerted on the hypertonic side of a selectively permeable membrane to prevent diffusion of water by osmosis from the side containing pure water.”


“Organisms in both aquatic and terrestrial environments must maintain the right concentration of solutes and amount of water in their body fluids; this involves excretion (getting rid of metabolic wastes and other substances such as hormones that would be toxic if allowed to accumulate in the blood) via organs such as the skin and the kidneys; keeping the amount of water and dissolved solutes in balance is referred to as osmoregulation.”

So What Is Water Hardness?

As explained in “The Birth of Water,” water accumulates many dissolved substances before it reaches our taps. Hardness is a measurement of the concentration of divalent metal ions such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, etc, usually acquired as rainwater percolates through rock. In most water it consists mainly of calcium and magnesium salts, with trace amounts of
other types of metals.

Water hardness is, from the Koi fish’s viewpoint, one of the most important aspects of water quality as it affects so many areas of fish health. Despite this importance to both fish health and water quality, it is often a poorly understood subject. Indeed, many fish keepers never check water hardness.

This seems particularly true of Koi keepers to whom it is especially relevant because of the high levels of nitrification taking place in a well-stocked Koi pond.

Water hardness has a major effect on pH and pH stability. It will affect the toxicity of many common substances, including some fish disease  treatments. It also has a major effect on fish osmoregulation, a process you will recall that is vital to fish health.

So what is water hardness; as explained in “The Birth of Water,” water accumulates many dissolved substances before it reaches our taps. Hardness is a measurement of the concentration of divalent metal ions such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, etc, usually acquired as rainwater percolates through rock. In most water it consists mainly of calcium and magnesium salts, with trace amounts of other metals.

Two types of hardness:
The subject gets a little confusing because there are two types of hardness that we need to consider. The two types are permanent hardness and alkalinity (often referred to as carbonate or temporary hardness). The sum of both types of hardness is called the general or total hardness.

Alkalinity refers to the hardness derived mainly from carbonate and bicarbonate ions and directly reflects the buffering capacity of the water. This form of hardness is also called carbonate hardness or temporary hardness because it can be precipitated and removed by boiling the water. This is why lime-scale forms in kettles and showerheads! 

Permanent hardness measures the ions such as nitrates, sulphates, and chlorides etc, that are not removed by boiling. Most of these are not involved with buffering but can affect pH values.

In most water supplies general hardness and alkalinity measurements (as mg/litre CaCO3) are likely to be very similar because carbonates usually predominate and the amount of permanent hardness is usually fairly small.

While there is a very close connection between water hardness and buffering it should be made clear that hardness is a product of mainly calcium and magnesium ions, while buffering is produced by bicarbonate and carbonate ions. The fact that the two are so closely related is due to the fact that most hardness is formed from calcium and magnesium carbonates.

So, as a rule of thumb, hard water is usually well buffered while soft water is usually less well buffered. However, we should be aware that it is possible, because of different water composition, to have hard water that is poorly buffered, i.e water where permanent hardness predominates, or soft water that is well buffered, i.e. water that has high levels of sodium or potassium carbonate, rather than calcium or magnesium.

Obviously the simple way to establish the makeup of your local water and pond water (they may not be the same) is to test for both types of hardness. Test kits are readily available for measuring both types of hardness.

The carbon dioxide/bicarbonate/carbonate buffering system
The initial pH of water is determined by the type of dissolved compounds that it accumulates, although it may well be chemi cally altered by the water company before it reaches your tap.

However, once it is in the pond or aquaria, water pH is also influenced by other factors such as plant and animal respiration and plant photosynthesis. Without some form of buffering these natural activities would cause huge diurnal swings in pH.

The most common buffering system is the carbon dioxide/ bicarbonate/ carbonate buffering system. Essentially it stabilizes pH by mopping up excess hydrogen ions and then releases them again as levels drop, so that the hydrogen concentration, and therefore the pH, stays fairly constant.

CO2+H2O H2CO3 HCO-+H +CO3 2- (solid) +2H+
What this equation tells us (from left to right) is that carbon dioxide, excreted by fish and plants, dissolves in water to form carbonic acid (H2CO).

If pH levels increase, that is the water becomes more alkaline (say from plant photosynthesis), then the carbonic acid dissociates to form bicarbonate and hydrogen ions (HCO3-+ H+). Hydrogen ions are acidic-forming ions and will therefore counteract the alkalinity increase.

If the pH continues to increase, the bicarbonate will dissociate to form solid carbonate and release yet more hydrogen ions (CO3 2-(solid) + 2H+), to counteract the increased alkalinity.

The solid carbonate is the chalk layer covering the pond bottom and walls (or the kitchen kettle). If pH levels start to fall the process is reversed. At a normal pond pH of 7 to 8 some or all of the above species will be present, with bicarbonate dominating.

Carbonate will predominate above pH 9. The buffering capacity of water depends on the total amount of bicarbonate and carbonate present. Water that has low levels of these ions will quickly exhaust its ability to counteract
pH fluctuations.

How much hardness?
Each fish species has its preferred range of water hardness, however it can become confusing, as there are several units of measurement currently used to determine water hardness. The most commonly used method measures both alkalinity and general hardness as mg /litre of calcium carbonate (CaCO3).

Another common measurement, used by Tetra, is German hardness measured as odH. These compare as seen in table 1. Fish health and water hardness:

Different species of fish have varied water hardness requirements, so it is important to find out what hardness is best for your fish. For most pond fish, i.e. Koi and goldfish, moderate to hard water is best. From table 1 we can see that the optimum hardness range for most pond fish would be between 100 -300 mg/litre CaCO3.

Water hardness affects fish health because it influences osmoregulation. Being open systems, fish are affected by the

Table 1: Typical Water Hardness Ranges

Water    mg / litre
Calcium carbonate °
                 dH



Soft
    0-75
                              0°–4°



Moderately Hard
                         75–150
                              4°–8°



Hard
150-300
                              8°–16°    
           



Very Hard
>300
                           >16°

To convert odH to CacO3 multiply by 17.9



makeup of the surrounding water. As a consequence of osmosis, freshwater fish are subject to a continuous influx of water, while marine fish have to live with a continuous outflow of water.

Against this continuous movement of water into or out of the body, fish have to maintain a constant internal body fluid concentration – a process called osmoregulation.

The greater the difference in concentration between the fish’s body fluidsand the surrounding water – the greater the osmotic effect. As hard water is more concentrated than soft, there will be less difference and therefore less water influx and consequently the fish will not have to work so hard at osmoregulation.

This is particularly important in cases of bacterial ulceration where water can flood into open tissues. Water hardness and disease treatments; some common fish disease treatments are affected by water hardness, and therefore needs to be considered when calculating dosages. Probably the most sensitive is chloramine-T, which is quite toxic in soft, acidic water.
How do I change water hardness?

First because nitrification is continually removing alkalinity it is important that hardness is monitored on a regular basis – say about once a month. If either alkalinity or general hardness falls below the optimum level it can be reversed by either adding a calciferous source such as crushed oyster shell to the filter or adding more buffer to the water. If alkalinity is too low then add a carbonate buffer. If general hardness is too low then add a calcium or magnesium buffer.

Coccolithic Calcium Carbonate - this will raise both the hardness and the alkalinity of the water.

Two types of hardness:
The subject gets a little confusing because there are two types of hardness that we need to consider. The two types are permanent hardness and alkalinity (often referred to as carbonate or temporary hardness). The sum of both types of hardness is called the general or total hardness.

Alkalinity refers to the hardness derived mainly from carbonate and bicarbonate ions and directly reflects the buffering capacity of the water. This form of hardness is also called carbonate hardness or temporary hardness because it can be precipitated and removed by boiling the water. This is illustrated by why-lime-scale forms in kettles and showerheads-carbonates usually is predominating and the amount of permanent hardness is usually fairly small.

While there is a very close connection between water hardness and buffering it should be made clear that hardness is a product of mainly calcium and magnesium ions, while buffering is produced by bicarbonate and carbonate ions.

The fact that the two are so closely related is due to the fact that most hardness is formed from calcium and magnesium carbonates. So, as a rule of thumb, hard water is usually well buffered while soft water is usually less well buffered.

However, you should be aware that it is possible, because of different water composition, to have hard water that is poorly buffered, inn other words water where permanent hardness predominates or soft water that is well buffered, in other words water that has high levels of sodium or potassium carbonate, rather than calcium or magnesium.

Obviously the simple way to establish the makeup of your local water and ponds water (they may not be the same) is to test for both types of hardness. Test kits are readily available for measuring both types of hardness.

The carbon dioxide/bicarbonate-carbonate buffering system -The initial pH of water is determined by the type of dissolved compounds that it accumulates, although it may well be chemically altered by the water company before it reaches your tap.

However, once it is in the pond or aquaria, water pH is also influenced by other factors such as plant and animal respiration and plant photosynthesis. Without some form of buffering these natural activities would cause huge diurnal swings in pH.

The most common buffering system is the carbon dioxide/bicarbonate/ carbonate buffering system. Essentially it stabilizes pH by mopping up excess hydrogen ions and then releases them again as levels drop, so that the hydrogen concentration, and therefore the pH, stays fairly constant.
CO2+H2O H2CO3 HCO-+H +CO3 2- (solid) +2H+

What this equation tells us (from left to right) is that carbon dioxide, excreted by fish and plants, dissolves in water to form carbonic acid (H2CO). If pH levels increase, that is the water becomes more alkaline (say from plant photosynthesis), then the carbonic acid dissociates to form bicarbonate and hydrogen ions (HCO3-+ H+). Hydrogen ions are acidic-forming ions and will therefore counteract the alkalinity increase.

If the pH continues to increase, the bicarbonate will dissociate to form solid carbonate and release yet more hydrogen ions (CO32-(solid) + 2H+), to counteract the increased alkalinity.

The solid carbonate is the chalk layer covering the pond bottom and walls(or the kitchen kettle). If pH levels start to fall the process is reversed. At a normal pond pH of 7 to 8 some or all of the above species will be present, with bicarbonate dominating.

Carbonate will predominate above pH 9; the buffering capacity of water depends on the total amount of bicarbonate and carbonate present. Water that has low levels of these ions will quickly exhaust its ability to counteract
pH fluctuations.

How Much Water Hardness Is Ok?
Each fish species has its preferred range of water hardness however it can become confusing, as there are several units of measurement currently used to determine water hardness. The most commonly used method measures both alkalinity and general hardness as mg /litre of calcium carbonate (CaCO3).

Another common measurement, used by Tetra, is German hardness measured as odH. These compare as seen in table 1. Fish health and water hardness: Different species of fish have varied water hardness requirements,
so it is important to find out what hardness is best for your fish.

For most pond fish, in other words Koi and goldfish, moderate to hard water is best. From table 1 we can see that the optimum hardness range for most pond fish would be between 100 - 300 mg/litre CaCO3.

Water hardness affects fish health because it influences osmoregulation. Being open systems, fish are affected by the makeup of the surrounding water. As a consequence of osmosis, freshwater fish are subject to a continuous influx of water, while marine fish have to live with a continuous outflow of water.

Against this continuous movement of water into or out of the body, fish have to maintain a constant internal body fluid concentration – a process called osmoregulation. The greater the difference in concentration between the fish’s body fluids and the surrounding water – the greater the osmotic effect.

As hard water is more concentrated than soft, there will be less difference and therefore less water influx and consequently the fish will not have to work so hard at osmoregulation. This is particularly important in cases of bacterial ulceration where water can flood into open tissues.

Water hardness and disease treatments-Some common fish disease treatments are affected by water hardness, and therefore needs to be considered when calculating dosages. Probably the most sensitive is  chloramine-T, which is quite toxic in soft, acidic water.

How do I change water hardness? First because nitrification is continually removing alkalinity it is important that hardness is monitored on a regular basis – say about once a month. If either alkalinity or general hardness falls below the optimum level it can be reversed by either adding a
calciferous source such as crushed oyster shell to the filter or adding more buffer to the water.

If alkalinity is too low then add a carbonate buffer. If general hardness is too low then add a calcium or magnesium buffer. Coccolithic Calcium carbonate - this will raise both the hardness and the alkalinity of the water. V Water mg / litre-Calcium carbonate °dH -Soft 0-75 0°–4°-Moderately Hard 75–150 4°–8°-Hard 150-300 8°–16°-Very Hard >300 >16°.

Table 1: Typical water hardness ranges-To convert odH to CacO3 multiply by 17.9 -Permanent hardness measures the ions such as nitrates, sulphates, and chlorides etc, that are not removed by boiling. Most of these are not involved with buffering but can affect pH values. In most water supplies general hardness and alkalinity measurements (as mg/litre CaCO3) are likely to be very similar because

by Dr. Erik Johnson, Georgia - www.drjohnson.com
September 2011 Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 19 Page 20 Mid-Atlantic Koi September 2011


Nishiki-ColorfulKoi









Monday, October 3, 2011

Strangling Koi-Could The Cause Be Lurking In The Filters?

Remember even a crystal clear pond might contain toxic levels of chemicals potentially lethal to your Koi, while an algae bloom might look repulsive; (makes it challenging or impossible to see your Koi) but actually could be beneficial to your Koi.

Butterfly Koi
Koi ponds are artificial self-contained ecosystems. Koi are ammonotelic, that is, the majority of their nitrogenous waste is excreted by diffusion (the movement of a substance from an area of higher concentration to one of lower concentration attempting to achieve equilibrium) via the gills, into the water, as ammonia. Ammonia is excreted in two forms: NH3 the toxic form, and NH4+ the ionized and nontoxic form.

The relationship between these two forms is greatly pH and temperature
dependent;-The higher (more alkaline) the pH, the greater the amount of (toxic) NH3, while the lower (more acidic) the pH, the greater the amount of (nontoxic) NH4+- The warmer the water, the more NH3, the colder, the more NH4+.

Because the unionized form of ammonia (NH3) is the toxic form, and because this form is more prevalent at higher pH and temperatures, ammonia-Becomes dramatically more toxic with increasing pH & temperature.

From Roark’s web site: www.click2roark.com biofilters  become populated with families of bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is also a very toxic substance.

Unlike ammonia, it does not come directly from Koi, but is formed almost solely in the filter or source of that family of bacteria. Because nitrite does not come from the Koi, when it contacts the Koi’s gills it enters the fish by diffusion (again from the area of higher concentration, the pond, into the lower concentration of the Koi blood) binding hemoglobin in blood rendering it unable to carry oxygen.

A second population of bacteria grow in our biofilters to convert nitrite to nitrate, fairly harmless to Koi but usable by algae and plants. As the Koi eat the algae and plants, this cycle begins all over again. The bacteria that convert nitrite to nitrate are the most susceptible to aberrations in water quality and are therefore the first to decrease in number ammonia is harmful to Koi, and even extremely small amounts in the water over an extended time may cause permanent gill damage.

Treatment for high nitrite includes water changes, suspended feeding, salting to 0.1% and increased oxygenation. Again, these are meant to temporarily improve the situation until the filter is working.

In all cases address the underlying causes- start with checking your filter. In the spring, check ammonia, nitrite, pH and KH (total alkalinity or Carbonates) with your test kits daily until your bacterial colonies are populated each spring, then weekly during the summer. An ounce of prevention is worth pound of cure. These forthright simple precautions can prevent a small problem evolving into a catastrophe failure and your investment is shattered.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Choosing Plants For Your Koi Water Garden

So you finally finished your water garden construction. You have finally come to the fun part of creating your water garden: picking the flowers and plants that will make your water garden a beautiful oasis.

Koi Water Garden

Not only should you consider beauty when you are picking your plants, but you must also remember that plants provide another, more important value to your garden, biological life. Biological life helps maintain your pool by doing what they would do in nature.

Be sure to pay attention to your climate and area. Some plants can simply not survive in certain conditions, so it is wise to do your research before hand. Talking with your local dealer will give you some idea of what plants you can and cannot have in your pond.

Lotus Plants

Lotus Plant


Undoubtedly, since your pond contains Koi, a tropical fish, you may want to keep with the theme and place Lotus plants in your pond. Pretty much everyone with a tropical water garden will want a Lotus plant because the beauty is simply unmatched by other flowers.

Lotus plants provide beautiful blooms, and a smell that is unmatched. However, unless you live in an area that sustains temperatures higher then 65 degree Fahrenheit, you will need to have to have a place to house your Lotus plants during the colder months. A greenhouse setup specifically for water plants will work the best.

Lotus plants require soil, and a large amount of sunlight. They should be planted in water about 2 to 3 feet deep during the warmer months, and indoors during the colder months.

Water Hyacinths

Water Hyacinths
If you simply do not have the time to plant and maintain your water garden’s foliage, or you are somewhat lazy when it comes to gardening, you may want to consider adding Water Hyacinths. Water hyacinths have become very popular recently because of their simplicity. They do not require any type of soil or planting, you must simply throw them into the water. Only minimal time is needed to anchor them down so that they do not float all over the pond freely.

Water Hyacinths are not only pretty, but are also very functional as well. These plants aid in the fight against both algae and blanket weeds.

One downside when having Water Hyacinths is the fact that they will take over your pond and yard if you allow them. Water hyacinths are very invasive, and will spread if allowed. In extreme cases, it may even jump the fence and take over the neighbors yard as well. Once they have caused this kind of infestation, it is notoriously difficult to get rid of them.

Hidden But Functional Plants

Alternatively, you may want to consider investing in plants that are not necessary seen. These plants live below the water line, and provide many needed functions to your pond. Some help you battle algae, put oxygen back into the water, or feed your fish for you.

You can find these plants in bundles at your local pet store or Koi dealer. The majority of underwater plants will not need additional support during the winter, so once you place them in the water, you may not think twice about them again. However, the benefits that you gain from having these types of plants make up for the fact that you are not able to actually see them.
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