Sunday, October 23, 2011

Water Hardness from Nishiki-Colorful Koi Viewpoint

Water Hardness from Nishiki-Colorful Koi Viewpoint

One of the most important aspects of water quality as it affects so many areas of Koi health. Despite this importance to both fish health and water quality, it is often a poorly understood subject. Indeed, many fish keepers never check water hardness.

This seems particularly true of Koi keepers to whom it is especially relevant because of the high levels of nitrification taking place in a well-stocked or over stocked Koi pond.
Nishiki-ColorfulKoi
Nishiki-ColorfulKoi
 

The higher the osmotic pressure of a solution the more water wants to move into the solution. Pressure must be exerted on the hypertonic side of a selectively permeable membrane to prevent diffusion of water by osmosis from the side containing pure water.”


“Organisms in both aquatic and terrestrial environments must maintain the right concentration of solutes and amount of water in their body fluids; this involves excretion (getting rid of metabolic wastes and other substances such as hormones that would be toxic if allowed to accumulate in the blood) via organs such as the skin and the kidneys; keeping the amount of water and dissolved solutes in balance is referred to as osmoregulation.”

So What Is Water Hardness?

As explained in “The Birth of Water,” water accumulates many dissolved substances before it reaches our taps. Hardness is a measurement of the concentration of divalent metal ions such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, etc, usually acquired as rainwater percolates through rock. In most water it consists mainly of calcium and magnesium salts, with trace amounts of
other types of metals.

Water hardness is, from the Koi fish’s viewpoint, one of the most important aspects of water quality as it affects so many areas of fish health. Despite this importance to both fish health and water quality, it is often a poorly understood subject. Indeed, many fish keepers never check water hardness.

This seems particularly true of Koi keepers to whom it is especially relevant because of the high levels of nitrification taking place in a well-stocked Koi pond.

Water hardness has a major effect on pH and pH stability. It will affect the toxicity of many common substances, including some fish disease  treatments. It also has a major effect on fish osmoregulation, a process you will recall that is vital to fish health.

So what is water hardness; as explained in “The Birth of Water,” water accumulates many dissolved substances before it reaches our taps. Hardness is a measurement of the concentration of divalent metal ions such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, etc, usually acquired as rainwater percolates through rock. In most water it consists mainly of calcium and magnesium salts, with trace amounts of other metals.

Two types of hardness:
The subject gets a little confusing because there are two types of hardness that we need to consider. The two types are permanent hardness and alkalinity (often referred to as carbonate or temporary hardness). The sum of both types of hardness is called the general or total hardness.

Alkalinity refers to the hardness derived mainly from carbonate and bicarbonate ions and directly reflects the buffering capacity of the water. This form of hardness is also called carbonate hardness or temporary hardness because it can be precipitated and removed by boiling the water. This is why lime-scale forms in kettles and showerheads! 

Permanent hardness measures the ions such as nitrates, sulphates, and chlorides etc, that are not removed by boiling. Most of these are not involved with buffering but can affect pH values.

In most water supplies general hardness and alkalinity measurements (as mg/litre CaCO3) are likely to be very similar because carbonates usually predominate and the amount of permanent hardness is usually fairly small.

While there is a very close connection between water hardness and buffering it should be made clear that hardness is a product of mainly calcium and magnesium ions, while buffering is produced by bicarbonate and carbonate ions. The fact that the two are so closely related is due to the fact that most hardness is formed from calcium and magnesium carbonates.

So, as a rule of thumb, hard water is usually well buffered while soft water is usually less well buffered. However, we should be aware that it is possible, because of different water composition, to have hard water that is poorly buffered, i.e water where permanent hardness predominates, or soft water that is well buffered, i.e. water that has high levels of sodium or potassium carbonate, rather than calcium or magnesium.

Obviously the simple way to establish the makeup of your local water and pond water (they may not be the same) is to test for both types of hardness. Test kits are readily available for measuring both types of hardness.

The carbon dioxide/bicarbonate/carbonate buffering system
The initial pH of water is determined by the type of dissolved compounds that it accumulates, although it may well be chemi cally altered by the water company before it reaches your tap.

However, once it is in the pond or aquaria, water pH is also influenced by other factors such as plant and animal respiration and plant photosynthesis. Without some form of buffering these natural activities would cause huge diurnal swings in pH.

The most common buffering system is the carbon dioxide/ bicarbonate/ carbonate buffering system. Essentially it stabilizes pH by mopping up excess hydrogen ions and then releases them again as levels drop, so that the hydrogen concentration, and therefore the pH, stays fairly constant.

CO2+H2O H2CO3 HCO-+H +CO3 2- (solid) +2H+
What this equation tells us (from left to right) is that carbon dioxide, excreted by fish and plants, dissolves in water to form carbonic acid (H2CO).

If pH levels increase, that is the water becomes more alkaline (say from plant photosynthesis), then the carbonic acid dissociates to form bicarbonate and hydrogen ions (HCO3-+ H+). Hydrogen ions are acidic-forming ions and will therefore counteract the alkalinity increase.

If the pH continues to increase, the bicarbonate will dissociate to form solid carbonate and release yet more hydrogen ions (CO3 2-(solid) + 2H+), to counteract the increased alkalinity.

The solid carbonate is the chalk layer covering the pond bottom and walls (or the kitchen kettle). If pH levels start to fall the process is reversed. At a normal pond pH of 7 to 8 some or all of the above species will be present, with bicarbonate dominating.

Carbonate will predominate above pH 9. The buffering capacity of water depends on the total amount of bicarbonate and carbonate present. Water that has low levels of these ions will quickly exhaust its ability to counteract
pH fluctuations.

How much hardness?
Each fish species has its preferred range of water hardness, however it can become confusing, as there are several units of measurement currently used to determine water hardness. The most commonly used method measures both alkalinity and general hardness as mg /litre of calcium carbonate (CaCO3).

Another common measurement, used by Tetra, is German hardness measured as odH. These compare as seen in table 1. Fish health and water hardness:

Different species of fish have varied water hardness requirements, so it is important to find out what hardness is best for your fish. For most pond fish, i.e. Koi and goldfish, moderate to hard water is best. From table 1 we can see that the optimum hardness range for most pond fish would be between 100 -300 mg/litre CaCO3.

Water hardness affects fish health because it influences osmoregulation. Being open systems, fish are affected by the

Table 1: Typical Water Hardness Ranges

Water    mg / litre
Calcium carbonate °
                 dH



Soft
    0-75
                              0°–4°



Moderately Hard
                         75–150
                              4°–8°



Hard
150-300
                              8°–16°    
           



Very Hard
>300
                           >16°

To convert odH to CacO3 multiply by 17.9



makeup of the surrounding water. As a consequence of osmosis, freshwater fish are subject to a continuous influx of water, while marine fish have to live with a continuous outflow of water.

Against this continuous movement of water into or out of the body, fish have to maintain a constant internal body fluid concentration – a process called osmoregulation.

The greater the difference in concentration between the fish’s body fluidsand the surrounding water – the greater the osmotic effect. As hard water is more concentrated than soft, there will be less difference and therefore less water influx and consequently the fish will not have to work so hard at osmoregulation.

This is particularly important in cases of bacterial ulceration where water can flood into open tissues. Water hardness and disease treatments; some common fish disease treatments are affected by water hardness, and therefore needs to be considered when calculating dosages. Probably the most sensitive is chloramine-T, which is quite toxic in soft, acidic water.
How do I change water hardness?

First because nitrification is continually removing alkalinity it is important that hardness is monitored on a regular basis – say about once a month. If either alkalinity or general hardness falls below the optimum level it can be reversed by either adding a calciferous source such as crushed oyster shell to the filter or adding more buffer to the water. If alkalinity is too low then add a carbonate buffer. If general hardness is too low then add a calcium or magnesium buffer.

Coccolithic Calcium Carbonate - this will raise both the hardness and the alkalinity of the water.

Two types of hardness:
The subject gets a little confusing because there are two types of hardness that we need to consider. The two types are permanent hardness and alkalinity (often referred to as carbonate or temporary hardness). The sum of both types of hardness is called the general or total hardness.

Alkalinity refers to the hardness derived mainly from carbonate and bicarbonate ions and directly reflects the buffering capacity of the water. This form of hardness is also called carbonate hardness or temporary hardness because it can be precipitated and removed by boiling the water. This is illustrated by why-lime-scale forms in kettles and showerheads-carbonates usually is predominating and the amount of permanent hardness is usually fairly small.

While there is a very close connection between water hardness and buffering it should be made clear that hardness is a product of mainly calcium and magnesium ions, while buffering is produced by bicarbonate and carbonate ions.

The fact that the two are so closely related is due to the fact that most hardness is formed from calcium and magnesium carbonates. So, as a rule of thumb, hard water is usually well buffered while soft water is usually less well buffered.

However, you should be aware that it is possible, because of different water composition, to have hard water that is poorly buffered, inn other words water where permanent hardness predominates or soft water that is well buffered, in other words water that has high levels of sodium or potassium carbonate, rather than calcium or magnesium.

Obviously the simple way to establish the makeup of your local water and ponds water (they may not be the same) is to test for both types of hardness. Test kits are readily available for measuring both types of hardness.

The carbon dioxide/bicarbonate-carbonate buffering system -The initial pH of water is determined by the type of dissolved compounds that it accumulates, although it may well be chemically altered by the water company before it reaches your tap.

However, once it is in the pond or aquaria, water pH is also influenced by other factors such as plant and animal respiration and plant photosynthesis. Without some form of buffering these natural activities would cause huge diurnal swings in pH.

The most common buffering system is the carbon dioxide/bicarbonate/ carbonate buffering system. Essentially it stabilizes pH by mopping up excess hydrogen ions and then releases them again as levels drop, so that the hydrogen concentration, and therefore the pH, stays fairly constant.
CO2+H2O H2CO3 HCO-+H +CO3 2- (solid) +2H+

What this equation tells us (from left to right) is that carbon dioxide, excreted by fish and plants, dissolves in water to form carbonic acid (H2CO). If pH levels increase, that is the water becomes more alkaline (say from plant photosynthesis), then the carbonic acid dissociates to form bicarbonate and hydrogen ions (HCO3-+ H+). Hydrogen ions are acidic-forming ions and will therefore counteract the alkalinity increase.

If the pH continues to increase, the bicarbonate will dissociate to form solid carbonate and release yet more hydrogen ions (CO32-(solid) + 2H+), to counteract the increased alkalinity.

The solid carbonate is the chalk layer covering the pond bottom and walls(or the kitchen kettle). If pH levels start to fall the process is reversed. At a normal pond pH of 7 to 8 some or all of the above species will be present, with bicarbonate dominating.

Carbonate will predominate above pH 9; the buffering capacity of water depends on the total amount of bicarbonate and carbonate present. Water that has low levels of these ions will quickly exhaust its ability to counteract
pH fluctuations.

How Much Water Hardness Is Ok?
Each fish species has its preferred range of water hardness however it can become confusing, as there are several units of measurement currently used to determine water hardness. The most commonly used method measures both alkalinity and general hardness as mg /litre of calcium carbonate (CaCO3).

Another common measurement, used by Tetra, is German hardness measured as odH. These compare as seen in table 1. Fish health and water hardness: Different species of fish have varied water hardness requirements,
so it is important to find out what hardness is best for your fish.

For most pond fish, in other words Koi and goldfish, moderate to hard water is best. From table 1 we can see that the optimum hardness range for most pond fish would be between 100 - 300 mg/litre CaCO3.

Water hardness affects fish health because it influences osmoregulation. Being open systems, fish are affected by the makeup of the surrounding water. As a consequence of osmosis, freshwater fish are subject to a continuous influx of water, while marine fish have to live with a continuous outflow of water.

Against this continuous movement of water into or out of the body, fish have to maintain a constant internal body fluid concentration – a process called osmoregulation. The greater the difference in concentration between the fish’s body fluids and the surrounding water – the greater the osmotic effect.

As hard water is more concentrated than soft, there will be less difference and therefore less water influx and consequently the fish will not have to work so hard at osmoregulation. This is particularly important in cases of bacterial ulceration where water can flood into open tissues.

Water hardness and disease treatments-Some common fish disease treatments are affected by water hardness, and therefore needs to be considered when calculating dosages. Probably the most sensitive is  chloramine-T, which is quite toxic in soft, acidic water.

How do I change water hardness? First because nitrification is continually removing alkalinity it is important that hardness is monitored on a regular basis – say about once a month. If either alkalinity or general hardness falls below the optimum level it can be reversed by either adding a
calciferous source such as crushed oyster shell to the filter or adding more buffer to the water.

If alkalinity is too low then add a carbonate buffer. If general hardness is too low then add a calcium or magnesium buffer. Coccolithic Calcium carbonate - this will raise both the hardness and the alkalinity of the water. V Water mg / litre-Calcium carbonate °dH -Soft 0-75 0°–4°-Moderately Hard 75–150 4°–8°-Hard 150-300 8°–16°-Very Hard >300 >16°.

Table 1: Typical water hardness ranges-To convert odH to CacO3 multiply by 17.9 -Permanent hardness measures the ions such as nitrates, sulphates, and chlorides etc, that are not removed by boiling. Most of these are not involved with buffering but can affect pH values. In most water supplies general hardness and alkalinity measurements (as mg/litre CaCO3) are likely to be very similar because

by Dr. Erik Johnson, Georgia - www.drjohnson.com
September 2011 Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 19 Page 20 Mid-Atlantic Koi September 2011


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Wednesday, September 28, 2011

How to Keep Your Pond In Good Condition

Keeping your pond in good condition should be your number one priority. Once your pond starts developing problems, you will find that it will take more time and money then if you were attempting to prevent these problems from happening in the first place.
 
Good Condition Koi Pond

 Water Quality

You filtration system is extremely important. There are 2 types of filtration, mechanical and biological. Mechanical filtration relieves the pond of solids such as dead algae, insects, and Koi wastes.

It is important to have enough filtration to sustain the size of the pond, and the amount and size of your Koi. Biological filtration causes a nitrogen cycle, which is what removes dissolved wastes from your pond. Without biological filtration, built up waste will turn into ammonia and kill your Koi within just a few days.

Keeping you Koi pond clean should be one of your number one priorities. A clean pond could mean the difference between you Koi living a beautiful stress free life, and potentially suffering until they ultimately die.

The water in which you’re Koi live is not only where they eat, sleep, and feed, but it is also where they use the bathroom in it as well. If you do not properly clean your pond, it is almost as if your Koi are living in the bathroom toilet.

The water in your pond should almost be completely clear. Your pond should contain no floating or suspended debris, and the Koi should appear to be floating in air. If you are unable to see the bottom of your pond, then chances are your pond is not clean enough.

Keep Supplies On Hand

As a new Koi pond owner, you may be overwhelmed with the amount of supplies needed to properly maintain your Koi pond. While the important of the majority of these items cannot be denied, the feeling of being overwhelmed by the amount needed should be disregarded. Simply knowing the function of each item can help you understand why they are needed.
Poor Condition Koi Pond
There are certain items that you need to have on hand at all times. Because you pond is outdoors, emergency situations do occur. Nature is simply unpredictable at times, and you do not want to be caught in a situation where an item is needed, but they are no way to obtain it.

Do Not Overfeed

Overfeeding can ultimately cause water quality issues. In nature, Koi would not nearly the amount of food that they do in controlled ponds. It is not unheard of for pond owners to feed many pounds of food to their Koi per week. This produces a larger amount of waste, whether it comes from the digestion process on the Koi’s part, or the amount of uneaten food that has settled to the bottom and spoiled. It is important to vacuum the bottom out as much as possible, and make sure all types of drainage systems are clear and in working order.

Prevent Common Illnesses

When purchasing new fish, it is a good idea to quarantine the new fish separately from your current population for no less then 15 days. Knowing that the Koi Herpes Virus is activated at exactly 74 degrees Fahrenheit allows you to expose your fish to the right conditions for the disease to show itself. Koi that live in the conditions for this amount of time and do not develop any symptoms will have a substantially less chance of having the virus.

It is important to remember that when you quarantine your new Koi, they should remain under total isolation. This means that you should not allow anything to come into contact with the quarantined Koi, especially items that also come into contact with your current population.

Separate tools, food, and water should be used, and never under any circumstances, should the tools used for your quarantined fish leave the area in which they are used. Another important thing to remember is proper hand washing procedures when handling both Koi and Koi items within the same time period.

Quarantining will not guarantee that you will not expose your fish to viruses, but it will greatly reduce the chance that you are.