Koi Pond Water Changes-Change Water Twice a Week

Koi Pond Water Changes

IT is very tempting to take up the challenge of creating a closed system in which the water, benefited by unending and created filtration treatment, will never need to have water changed; like turning lead into gold, no one has been able to realize this fantasy in real life.

All living creatures ‘impact’ their environment and our koi are no exception. Some of you may remember when Jmat was made out of ‘horse hair’ (actually other organic fibers) and how long that material lasted once bacteria settled on and began breaking it down. We all know of the power of water and bacteria to dissolve all material it comes in contact with- rusting, eroding, and metabolizing.

Our koi and associated microbes will, over time, add ‘things’ to a fixed body of water and ‘take things’ or use things up within that water and the ever changing water will then impact the internal workings of the koi, who are separated from their watery environment by only a few layers of cells located at the Koi’s external gateway; i.e., the Koi’s gills. 

So like a submarine with a screen door, the gills must deal with the building metabolites both inside itself and immediately outside its body and of course, a koi is subject to the pesky laws of osmosis and diffusion.

One of the rapidly building waste products produced by koi in large, ever building quantities is phosphate. Today’s Koi foods are LOADED with lots of essentials and today’s Koi and most owners over feed lots of koi food!

Not all this material can be utilized by the koi on an hour-to-hour bases and much of the packed nutrition and mineral content is simply passed out of the koi for bacteria to deal with in a process known as mineralization.

Those bacteria then use the ammonia or hand it off to nitrifies; that we are all familiar with. But this is a process and some stages will take some time. And during that time, building nitrogenous materials like nitrate and residuals like phosphate will increase. All of this results in a high bacteria count, shifting result.

This is in addition to my routine of ‘sump dumping’ daily in summer and twice a week in winter. The amount I change is 15-20 % in winter and as much as 25-30% in summer. I used to do more but found that, that much raw water (C2O well water issues) was excessive and becoming more of an un-stabilizing force than a stabilizing one.

In designing your own philosophy and approach to water changes, first consider your stocking level and then your feeding schedule and food type. If we wish for a true optimal BASE LINE reading on these various parameters, we must appreciate that the koi population’s basic metabolism will require a certain minimal maintenance and counter manning, and THEN the type and amounts of food added from season to season will require an additional safety margin.

This becomes evident when you shift from say, wheat germ pellet to hi protein pellets- you can actually SEE the effect on water in a closed system very quickly. This is especially true if temperatures are not ‘right’ for food type and the bulk are passed through the fish semi digested water chemistry (pH, hardness) and loss of oxygen (ORP decline).

Great heroics can be applied to try and stay ahead of this dynamic but the trend line is clear- the water is becoming polluted and burdened and at the same time, it is losing its proper gas saturation ratio and its typical buffering capacity.

What is the solution? Use band-aids so as to ‘properly manage an over stocked pond’. Do what I call ‘chasing the parameters’ by adding gadget upon gadget in an attempt to manage excess and sequential changes in nitrogenous waste material species. Or possibly use resins, carbons and binders to try and mask the excesses of an impossible situation.

Another solution: use regular water changes to bring the excess build up and declining mineral/buffer content back to base line optimal readings. This would be in the area of alkaline reserve, ORP, nitrogenous waste (nitrate), phosphate, bacteria count, algal balance, and desirable gas saturation ratios.

Amounts and frequency of water change is as much an art as a science. And depending on circumstances, water changes can be a breeze or a real pain!

Source water quality is definitely a case of great concern. Most serious hobbyists use some form of pre-filtration to insure that raw water is not too raw. Here is where resins, carbons and filters represent money well spent.

Some hobbyists have taken it even a step further and use this entry point an opportunity to bring water to even a higher physiological compatibility with their koi by adjusting source water pH and hardness.

Depending on your source water, you can devise a schedule and use testing for things like nitrate, phosphate, ORP, pH, bacteria count, BOD, etc; as guides to whether or not you are keeping up with the dynamics of the closed system.

Personally, I do two water changes a week, which is excessive for my particular system, but the koi really do grow and glow as a I’m sure the advance keeper will agree with this statement -a water change is the single best alley one can employ for the month-to-month stability of a pond. Poor source water and excess water changes can certainly be an un-stabilizing force. But a closed system, left to its own dynamics, is the ultimate unraveling environment.

By James Reilly, New Jersey

Curing "Cotton Wool" Fungus on Your Koi

Cotton wool or cotton ball disease is a called Saprolegnia — a bad fungus that grows when bad water quality stresses your koi. Expect to find it when the water contains quantities of uneaten food and when the pond has too many koi for its size.

Cotton Wool On Koi

Fungus can attack any weakened portion of a koi, from the skin to the gills. It usually takes hold opportunistically, when the koi are stressed. Be sure that you always check for the presence of fungus when your fish suffer an unrelated trauma or illness.

When a koi has cotton wool fungus, the fish develops what looks like a fine-textured fur coat over its body that's actually mold growing on the skin. Sometimes the fungus looks like a pale-orange or ivory-colored layer. As the disease progresses, the fungus grows longer, cotton-like tufts.

 

Cotton Wool on Koi

• Treat this disease by correcting the conditions that lead to the outbreak:

•  Decrease the number of koi in the pond.

Improve water quality through partial water changes; an upgraded filtration system; an ammonia remover like AmQuel Plus or Zeolite; and increased aeration.

You can also use medication against the fungus. Adding methylene blue (a dye commonly used as a fish medication and available at most pet stores) to the pond at a rate of 1 teaspoon per 700 gallons helps kill the fungus, but individually treating each affected koi in a quarantine tub stops the progression of the disease much faster.

Either sedate the koi or hold it so you can remove the patches of fungus with a cotton swab. Then dab the affected spots first with malachite green (a fungicide) and then with propolis (an antibiotic and topical treatment). 

Cotton Wool -Koi

Return the Koi to the quarantine tub and watch closely to make certain no secondary fungal or bacterial infection sets in. Use medication against the fungus. Adding methylene blue (a dye commonly used as a fish medication and available at most pet stores) to the pond at a rate of 1 teaspoon per 700 gallons helps kill the fungus, but individually treating each affected koi in a quarantine tub stops the progression of the disease much faster.