Koi Ponds Causes For Excess Ammonia Which Always Includes Nitrites

Clamped Fins; White Burns Caused By Ammonia Poisoning. Goldfish or  Koi Look The Same With Clamped Fins

·        Overstocking Koi

·        Overfeeding Koi

·        Low Oxygen Saturation

·        Undersized Biofilter

·        Immature Filter (good bacterial colonies have not increased to a sufficient number this usually occurs in the spring)

·        Dirty Filter

·        Filter too Aggressively or Frequently Cleaned (especially

·        if chlorinated tap water has been used)

·        Chemical treatments that harms good bacteria;

Symptoms of high ammonia: could include weariness Koi could be lying on bottom of your pond with clamped fins and red streaking-flashing, jumping.

Symptoms of high nitrite: could include sluggishness (sometimes lying on pond bottom with clamped fins, though swimming up for food before going down again)-brown streaking in the pectoral fins-jumping, flashing.

There are 2 types test kits for ammonia:  Nessler and Salicylate.

Nessler kits use one reagent grade-yellow to red; reagent grade defined (a reactant or reagent is a substance consumed during a chemical reaction.[1] Solvents and catalysts, although they are involved in the reaction, are usually not referred to as reactants.

Although the terms reactant and reagent are often used interchangeably, reagent is often used in a more specialized sense as "a test substance that is added to a system in order to bring about a reaction or to see whether a reaction occurs".[1] Examples of such analytical reagents include Fehling's reagent and Tollens' reagent. In organic chemistry, reagents are compounds or mixtures, usually composed of inorganic or small organic molecules, that are used to effect a transformation on an organic substrate. Examples of organic reagents include the Collins reagent, Fenton's reagent, and Grignard reagent.

In another use of the term, when purchasing or preparing chemicals, "reagent-grade" describes chemical substances of sufficient purity for use in chemical analysis, chemical reactions or physical testing. Purity standards for reagents are set by organizations such as ASTM International. For instance, reagent-quality water must have very low levels of impurities like sodium and chloride ions, silica, and bacteria, as well as a very high electrical resistivity and the color goes from. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reagent

There are 2 types test kits for ammonia: Salicylate test kits use two reagents, and the results vary from yellow to shades of green/blue. If you are using chemicals such as ChlorAmX or Ultimate to bind ammonia (or

Chlorine), you MUST use Salicylate tests. 

 

 The problem with the Nessler test: Nessler test reads all ammonia present, including ammonia that is now bound by the chemical, and which is no

longer harmful to the Koi so no matter how much binder you add – the test shows ammonia! 

  

Salicylate tests reads only the unbound ammonia (the type of ammonia which harms your Koi!) and the bound ammonia (which is no longer harmful to your Koi) is invisible-so you will know immediately result of the Salicylate test shows ammonia, then you need to add more ammonia binder.

Treatment for high ammonia:

·        Water changes to dilute ammonia

·        Binders such as ChlorAmX or Ultimate, or in very small pond ecosystem-systems Zeolite rocks which absorb ammonia from your pond system.

·        Remember that salt will release the ammonia bound to the Zeolite-these are all meant to be temporary solutions while your filter may not be working up to capacity.

·        ANY unbound ammonia is harmful to your Koi even extremely small amounts in the water over an extended time may cause permanent gill damage.

Treatment for high nitrite

·        Includes water changes-change 50% of water from bottom

·        Suspended feeding

·        Salting to 0.1% and increased oxygenation. Again, these are meant to only temporarily improve the situation until the filters are working.

In all cases address the underlying cause

·        check your filter

·         In the spring, check ammonia, nitrite, pH and KH (total alkalinity or Carbonates) use your test kits daily until your bacterial colonies are populated each and every spring-then weekly during the summer.

·        Simple precautions will help stop small problem-becoming major disasters.

Bagging and Transporting Koi

Bagging Koi

Koi, like any other pet, will have medical issues throughout its life; especially since Koi have been know to have a life span of up to 30 years. You contact the vet because you Koi is showing signs of injury or illness, and unless you have a vet that does house calls, chances are the first thing they will say is “bring it in.”

Issues with your pond can arise, whether it is an emergency move because your pond is placed into harms way by natural events, or a planned move due to new construction. No amount of planning can ensure that you will not have to move your Koi for one reason or another.

With the problems that arose from recent events such a Hurricane Katrina and Hurricane Rita, and everyday events such as common illnesses, it is imperative that you have a plan of action when it comes to your pride and joys. No matter if it is an emergency or not, knowing how to properly bag and transport your Koi could mean the difference between life and death.

Equipment Needed

First, it is always a good idea to have all the equipment needed to transport your Koi on hand. If you are having an emergency with your Koi, you may or may not have time to make a trip to your local pet store to gather what you need. The equipment needed to bag and transport Koi is small, and easily stored when not in use.

Bags- You must have the proper bags on hand to transport Koi. Do not attempt to transport your Koi in trash or regular plastic bags, as they are not designed for this, and may cause damage to your Koi. Unless you remembered to keep the bags you brought your Koi home in originally, you will have to make a trip to your local pet store. Make sure to get bags sizable enough to hold your Koi.

Rubber Bands- You will need quite a few rubber bands for each bag you buy. Make sure that your rubber bands are good quality, as you do not want the pressure from the water to pop the rubber band in the middle of the transport.

Net- You will need to have a net sizeable enough to compete with your Koi. You will never need the net to pull the Koi out of the water with, but you will need it to lead and direct your Koi into the place you want them. Nets can potentially damage your Koi, especially as the larger they get.

Paint Bucket- A paint bucket is a better option for catching your Koi, as they cannot hurt your Koi like a net can. Make sure that your bucket is sizable enough to hold your Koi.

Bagging your Koi

The process of catching and bagging your Koi is actually pretty simple as long you have the proper equipment available. If you pond is large, you may want to consider enlisting the help of your friends when bagging your Koi.

Use the net to guide the Koi into the Paint Bucket. Once the Koi is in the paint bucket you can remove any excess water, and begin bagging the Koi.

Make sure that your check the bags for leaks. Once you are sure that the bag is secure, place the bag over the Koi from head to tail. Make sure there is enough water in the bag to completely cover the gills. Leave plenty of air room so that the bag is not too heavy to carry. Slip the rubber bands around the end of the bag and continue to double it until the bag is secure.

Place the bags horizontally in your transport container. Make sure that you do not bend the fish when lifting it. Secure the bag so that it will not move with bumps and turns, and cover the fish so that as little heat and sun light can enter as possible.